THE BIG SECRET

perfume formulations

Welcome at THE BIG SECRET, a website dedicated to sharing -what looks like- the biggest secrets on earth: Perfume Formulas.

"I've spend a long time searching the internet for hints and glimpses of *real* and *usable* perfume formulas. I was looking for basic and more advanced formulas from fellow perfumers for educational and fun purposes (not for copies of the big names and brands; you won't find them here either!). Even Yahoo groups tend to share little complete "do it yourself" formulas, however they share valuable knowledge. So, i decided to start sharing a piece of my knowledge on the internet and share some of my most useful and educational perfume formulations. Enjoy!" - Jeroen Sparla

All accords and formulas shared on this website are:

  • for educational purposes; you must understand perfume making is a mix of knowledge and art. I consider, at least some of, my formulas as an form of an artistic expression and hence claim copyright. If you plan to use -parts- of my recipes for things otherwise than a DIY experiment, please contact me. I'm sure we'll come to an agreement that is beneficiary for you and me. 

  • assuming you've created a perfume before ;-) This site is not a step-by-step DIY guide but assumes a basic understanding about perfumery

  • in drops rather than weight. The latter more accurate, the first easier to handle. We are talking educational purposes, not mass-production, right? ;-) 
    Although the newer formula's are starting to use weight (milligrams), because they are more delicate (and needs to be more exact). There is no generic conversion between weight and volume, this is material specific. Rule-of-thumb is: 1 drop = on average 20 milligram. On average. So thick materials will be more like 25 to 35 milligrams a drop, and light materials more like 15 milligrams a drop.

  • coded: PO = perfume (fragrance) oil, EO = essential oil, AC = aroma chemical

  • diluted as a percentage of the normal strength (=100%), normally diluted in alcohol, otherwise stated like DEP, DPG, and so on

  • all tinctures and resinoids are alcohol based, if not explicit otherwise stated (DEP/DPG)

  • all crystalline / powder diluted materials are it's volume as a volume percentage of the alcohol (or DEP/DPG); for example 20% dilution of coumarin is 2 ml coumarin crystals diluted in 8 ml of alcohol for the drop-based formulas. For the weight based formula's in milligrams, the dilution is based on weight i.e. 20% dilution of coumarin is 2000 milligram coumarin crystals diluted in 8000 milligram of alcohol.

  • eventually diluted on Eau de Parfum (EDP) strength with the given amount of alcohol

  • sometimes referred to by existing names and brands; however they are not mend as copies(!), they just might have hints in that direction. It's often difficult to describe the scent of a new created perfume and it can help to refer to an existing well known brand or perfume. So, if you see names like Héritage, Guerlain, Jubilation XXV, Amouage, Chanel, No. 5, Green Irish Tweed, Creed, and so on, it's intended to illustrate a hint of a scent in that direction; it even doesn't resemble a certain match. 

  • no copies! I repeat: no copies. All formulations are new and original fragrances

  • mostly for man, often unisex and occasionally for woman only ;-). I prefer, as you will notice by the formulas, compositions that rely heavily on the base notes. Since i don't create perfumes for the "wow effect" when smelling it on a blotter in a perfume shop, i enjoy to focus on heart and base notes. The dry down phase, which can easily last for over 24 hours in my creations, is the part i focus on. In most cases the top notes are merely used as blenders and the effect they have after maturing on the other chemical ingredients

  • using aroma chemicals as well. Yep, i see the beauty of all-natural essential oils, but i see the beauty of aroma chemicals too ;-) 

  • time consuming, they need some time to blend; i prefer to put them for at least 6 weeks in the fridge, shaken every other day

  • copyrighted by me

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