top of page
Writer's pictureJeroen Sparla

KA: variations on a fresh summer citrus accord

This perfume formula needs a bit of your own creativity. The formulation below, except for the last two ingredients -the two accords-, gives you a citrus base to work with.

This citrus accord is very versatile and a solid top-note base to conduct your own experiments with. On it's own, it's delicate and fresh. The hedione provides radiance and staying power, while the givescone, myrcenol, glycolate, aldehyde and propionate bend the citrus oils beyond a mere cleaning agent towards a perfume.


And now the fun part starts: pick a flower base and a wood base of your choice. Really, almost anything goes from here. 

I've experimented with a Musk Rose accord and a Woodmix accord, in the given amounts of 200 and 80 milligrams. But this can also easily adjusted to your likings.

The citrus part of the formula is so versatile and forgiving, you can't go wrong. (well, don't push the limits here).


To give you an idea, i created the Musk Rose accord from ambergris (3%, 145), castoreum (0,5% 65), civet (1%, 20), ambrettolide (625), galaxolide (50%, 820), ethyleen brassylate (500), habanolide (390), exaltolide (50%, 250), velvione (165), traseolide (240), helvetolide (160), nepalva (170), zenolide (250), romanolide (80), iso muscone (50%, 350), rosamusk (300), rose otto (10%, 185), benzyl benzoate (2315), hercolyn D (150), Dorinia SA E (90), ethyl vanille (10%, 80), ambermax 50 (25), ambrocenide (2%, 100) 


My Woodmix accord is rather complex too, and has the following ingredients in it: Woodmix = black agar (290), spikenard (30), vertofix (235), olibanum wood (140), oud blend (25%, 100), okoumal (20%, 285), cashmeran (205), blackwood (40), clearwood (265), sandela (295), IBCH (195), sandal mysore (125), sandal west indie (105), agar jewel 4D (33%, 80), tobacarol (40), bacdanol (135), ambercore (85), isolongfolanone (175), gualyl acetate (55), IPM (2900).

It's quite a long list of ingredients for the accords above, but there are lots of good accords available to work with right on from creatingperfume.com, for an overview see http://www.creatingperfume.com/aromaaccords.aspx

Find your favorite flower and your favorite wood and almost all goes! :)

I've added quite some musks in my Musk Rose accord, due to most people are anosmic too a range of musks. By using a rather broad palette of musks, chances are most people will pick up a few.


3,083 views0 comments

Recent Posts

See All

Comments


bottom of page