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LU: an approach to mimic Molecule 01 perfume

Molecule 01 from Escentric Molecules is discussed on numerous DIY perfume boards. From what we know from Escentric Molecules is they have marketed the perfume as a single aroma chemical perfume. Within the DIY community, it's often thought that about 20% of ISO E Super is all there is to create a copy of the famous Molecule 01 perfume. More reading about the subject will learn you about isomers of the ISO E super molecule, and especially the G isomer, often called ISO G Super. In the purest form, it's a captive: we DIY perfumers can't get our hands on it. That's why some people like to replace part of the ISO E Super in their experiments with Timbersilk, a bit richer in the sought after G isomer than ISO E Super. 

Besides that, the strange thing of the single-molecule claim, is a noticeable top-heart-base change in the Molecule 01 perfume. One should expect a quite lineair perfume, when it's based on a single molecule... Testing it on a blotter or on skin, one might notice hints of citrus, pepper, musk, sandalwood and orris; on different intensities at different stages.

Well, when it's virtually impossible to copy Molecule 01 based on the claimed ISO G Super, why not pull of an experiment that mimics at least the different stages and scent impressions. Rather fun and a nice DIY learning curve ;-)

Below you will find my formula to mimic the effects of Molecule 01: it will -based on ISO E Super and Timbersilk- give the flashing wood experience, like it's fading away and coming back on your skin during the day. But it also adds the notes that we can smell in Molecule 01, but are not there using ISO E Super on it's own. Have fun!


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jeroen
jeroen
Dec 20, 2018

Hi Amin, Sichuan or Pink boils down to personal preference and the quality and odour profile of the oils. I've used Sichuan from Robertet (http://matieres-premieres.robertet.com/sichuan-pepper-absolute-co2-extract). This is much sharper in your nose and less sweet than the Pink accord. But i can imagine most people will prefer Pink... Ha, yes, thank you for the typo, i was looking for alternatives or substitutes, but for Iris OA i couldn't find anything comparable. You could use Orris butter or Irival (IFF) in trace amounts though.

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Amin Lalani
Amin Lalani
Dec 20, 2018

LU: an approach to mimic Molecule 01 perfume - Sounds interesting, but I need your help/enlightenment on couple of things

1. Sichuan pepper or Pink pepper - If you have both which one would you recommend?

2. Iris OA - Seems like you intended to put a substitute next to it but then you did not so will you kindly fill in thst blank


Thank you very much for what you do. Wish you a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

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